Friday, September 21, 2007

Day 12, August 29, 2007, Port Angeles WA

We both got up fairly early since we were meeting Ian Kerrigan (our financial planner) in Port Townsend that morning. We drove the 50 or so miles and met at the Otter Creek Crossing restaurant which has come under new management, but it was still good food. After a good meeting with Ian we drove over to Mike and Jean Edwards’ house just outside Port Angeles. Mike and Scott worked together back in the Synoptics/Cisco/Boeing days, and Mike and his wife Jean had just sold their house in Issaquah about 6 months ago, and moved to their current home in Port Angeles. They took this old rambler and fixed it up, adding a 2nd level on top and remodeling it extensively. They have a 180 degree view of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, right off of the bluffs, and they have a lot of privacy as well. A lovely home for their retirement! And Jean was happy to be living nearby her sister whom she hadn’t seen for many, many years since her sister used to live in California. It was great to see their new place. Later that evening they popped down to the marina to see our boat, which they were pleased with. I made some spaghetti for dinner with quite a bit left over. I thought it would be a quick meal to heat up while we’re under way in the big blue Pacific Ocean. Little did I know that it would be a meal too hard for me to stomach while we were underway…
Patrick Coonan, his wife Susan & 7 year old son, Jonathan, arrived that evening after a rough day at sea. They had left Edmonds that morning and spent most of the trip in dense fog. It was difficult since they needed to cross through the traffic lanes of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Then, the winds picked up and tossed them to and fro’ for a very uncomfortable ride. Poor Jonathan actually got sick after passing Point Wilson. Not a fun day for them at sea, and I think they were pleased when they finally made it to Port Angeles.

The winds finally died down that evening, and water in the marina was like glass. We decided to travel along with the Coonans and the other couple Linda and Bill, who were headed in the same direction we were. We agreed to leave at 6:30 the next morning.
-Admiral Marian


I had been talking to Patrick all day and warning him about gale force winds in the straits. Well, each time I talked to him he said “It’s foggy here, but we are making good progress”. Then I warned him about Point Wilson, later finding he breezed right past. Now I started thinking about the boy that cried wolf. I knew the forecast was for 30 to 40 knot winds at the east entrance to the straits, but it had yet to kick up. Well, when we got to Mike Edwards house the straits were flecked with whitecaps. Now it was starting to blow. I called Patrick and he advised that things were still manageable, but that he had slowed to 4 knots. Damn, now he’s committed to making it all the way to Port Angeles, and it’s going to do nothing but get worse. Well to make a long story short, he arrived in the boat basin about 17:00 with a 25 knot wind. He wisely chose a side tie rather than trying to shoehorn crosswind into the slip next to me. In a matter of a few minutes he was tied up and ready to unwind. I felt terrible hearing that poor Jonathan had actually gotten sick, as no one wants to experience that. I felt relieved when I saw him and he seemed none the worse for the ware. I finally got to introduce Marian and Susan and they hit it off just as I knew they would. Susan is a beautiful woman and one of the most engaging and welcoming people you will ever meet, just like my bride Marian! Jonathan is the most intelligent young boy I’ve ever met. With a vocabulary like a college bound scholar and behavior any parent would be proud to see in their children, I find Jonathan a joy to be around. As Marian mentioned, Bill and Linda Edwards aboard Wayward Wind were also there. We all gathered at the dock and discussed a departure time.
I’m a fan of leaving early, at first light, as is Patrick. Bill felt pushing against the current was counter productive, so we agreed to leave at 6:30am, shortly after sunrise. The forecast was for calm conditions, an ebbing tide and a benign Pacific for at least 48 hours, the perfect staging for Marian and my first blue water, over night, multi day experience.

-Skipper

Day 11, August 28, 2007, Roche Harbor, San Juan Island to Port Angeles WA

We got up after sleeping in a bit and prepared the boat to leave. We said our goodbyes to Jackie and Carter who wished us a nice farewell. While we were leaving the harbor we got a little bit blue and suddenly felt lonely for our girls. We were really leaving, and it hit us both sadly. We both decided that the first moment we get cell-phone reception, we’ll call our girls. We dried our eyes and pushed forward to make way for Port Angeles. The weather was incredible and the Straits of Juan de Fuca were as calm as could be. We really lucked out. I took the helm while Scott showered, and I have to say, it was quite fun being in charge.
We arrived in Port Angeles around 2:00, and realized how hungry we both were. I made some grilled sandwiches and then noticed that there was another Nordhavn in the marina. It was Bill & Linda Edwards on Wayward Wind, and Linda recognized Scott immediately. They had met at the FUBAR meeting down in California months earlier. Linda advised that we rent a car in order to go shopping in town since it was too far away. So that’s what we did. We walked about a mile into town, rented a car, came back, got our laundry, took it to a Laundromat, went grocery shopping, went back to the Laundromat to put the stuff in the dryer, then back to the boat to unload the groceries, had a bite to eat for dinner, then back to the Laundromat to fold the clothes and bring them home. We both were exhausted from all of the walking, and so it felt especially great when we crawled into bed that night.
-Admiral Marian

As Marian mentioned above, this was a particularly challenging day. Today the enormity of this decision hit me like no other. As we left Roche Harbor I was overwhelmed thinking about our children, family and friends we were leaving behind. I mention these things because this is really the hardest thing about leaving. Leaving our daughters with their new husbands, Marian’s sisters and brothers all with nieces and nephews is very difficult. This is the hard part about this journey. Sure we say we will be home soon, but we won’t be there on weekends to cook them dinner, or bring them soup if they are sick, or offer then a warm bed to sleep in if they find themselves between apartments or houses. Yes we are a phone call away, but it’s not the same. My only solace in this realization is that part of our motivation to do this now is so we can be there for our children when they become parents. This is a 2 or 3 year journey at most, it’s not an open-ended trip that will continue on and on. We want to be grandparents and support our children the way our parents supported us. So, doing this now is part of being there when they will really need us. Anyway, I must say our harts weighed heavy as we left Roche Harbor and headed for Port Angeles and the beginning of our real journey. I shed more than one tear as I reflected on all this.
While I’m thinking about it, there are two other people that stand out as people I’ll miss. Carter Miller and Jim Lewis are like family to me. Carter, a former SR71 pilot and test pilot for Lockheed spent much of his life in the military, as did my father. A few years my senior, I look up to Carter in many ways. He moved is wife Jackie and dog Stolie to Semiahmoo a few years ago and loves it. He has adopted Washington as his new home. Carter is a gourmet chef and always selects fantastic places to eat. He has taken to boating like a fish to water and is as passionate about it as anyone I know. If there was an ocean going trawler that could also make 20 knots and fit in a 40’ slip, Carter would jump on it. As it is, he has lived his life at Mach 3 and just can’t see slowing down to 7 knots. I do think in time Carter will get a larger, slower boat, but it won’t be until he sees himself slowing down as well, something I think is a long way off!
And now for Jim Lewis. If there was anyone in the world that is as close to me as a brother, it’s Jim. Jim is the most selfless, giving and caring man I know. He’s a bit of a mad scientist type, calling to ask me “where can I buy a bed?” Well Jim, you can buy a bed at Sears, The Bon, Eddie Bauer and on and on. Sometimes with the simple things Jim just doesn’t connect the dots. Or maybe it’s easier to call me because he knows I’ll know how to save some time looking for it? Regardless, Jim is also one who is there to help whenever someone needs it. He has offered over and over to meet me at the boat and accomplish a dirty, thankless task. He has helped rescue my daughter from being stranded on a freeway, taken family photos of a group of 30, participated in a deliver up the coast with Mike Maurice and a number of other things to numerous to mention. Jim is as close to me as anyone I know, and I will miss our afternoon coffee meetings at Starbucks. Ok, enough of that, on to the adventure!
-Skipper

Monday, September 10, 2007

Day 10, 8/27/07 Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

We all slept in and then Cindy and Tom spent most of the morning packing up to leave. We decided to join them in taking the shuttle bus over to Friday Harbor. We found the dock where they were to catch a float plane back to Seattle. They left their bags at the office, and then walked over to a pub where we had lunch. When we went back to the docks to wait for their flight, there was a Komo 4 News plane tied up with a news anchor man there (can’t remember his name – ugh!) When Tom & Cindy’s plane arrived, the pilot asked if anyone wanted to sit up front next to him, and Tom’s hand shot up immediately. He was so excited, and I think that made his day. It certainly made Scott and I feel better about leaving them. We were excited for them, rather than feeling sad to see them go. While we were leaving the docks we noticed a shop selling live prawns so we bought some to take home for dinner. Carter gladly cooked us all some dinner on our boat with the prawns, pasta, bread and salad. Absolutely delicious! We spent the rest of the evening talking about our plans to leave for Port Angeles where we hoped to get more water and re-provision.
-Admiral Marian

This is probably a good point to catch you up on an aspect of our trip that hasn’t been discussed previously. We are joining another boat in our trip south. Patrick, Susan and Jonathan Coonan are aboard a 43’ Nordhavn named Paloma. Patrick is retired eye surgeon and Susan is home, or boat, schooling 8 year old Jonathan for the foreseeable future. I met Patrick at a Trawlerfest in Poulsbo several times and came to admire and respect him greatly. He is an experienced sailor and making the move to power. We found we share many beliefs and feel we may be good traveling companions, so we agreed to travel to the FUBAR event together. We were due to meet Patrick in Neah Bay on August 28th, but a problem arose that caused a change in plans. Patrick had been having a slight oil leak in the transmission on his boat and several days earlier the leak got worse. Patrick worked with representatives of the company to identify and repair the problem and that put a bit of a delay in our departure planning. At this point we had agreed to meet in Port Angeles on Thursday the 28th. We are really looking forward to meeting with Patrick and beginning our journey south.
-Skipper

Day 9, 8/26/07 Victoria B.C. to Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

We took off for Roche Harbor the next morning, and the sights along the way were so beautiful. We had a bit of a current going so we were only making 4 knots, therefore it took us quite a while to get there. Carter, in his Camano, managed to get there very quickly – in about 2 hours, while it took us about 4 ½ hours. He went a different way which must have helped a bit, but we were still baffled how quickly he got there. They had already had their lunch and were lounging around on fly bridge of their boat when we arrived. Scott treated us all to a delicious lunch and then we walked along the docks checking out all the other boats. We saw Ken William’s boat, a 68-foot Nordhavn, and we were amazed how huge it was. They have a hot tub on the upper most deck. It has 4 levels on that boat!!
We went back to the boat and the guys started working on securing the tender down with additional straps that Scott had found. I made some more Pina Coladas, which is so refreshing, and lightens their moods while working. Tom and Scott get so silly! They are such clowns, and they make Cindy & I laugh all the time. We went up to the restaurant for dinner, and it was magnificent! Scott & I both decided that this eating-out business needs to come to a stop because we’ll never lose weight eating this way. At least we passed on dessert that night, which was a first…..

-Admiral Marian

We left early to avoid the winds that were forecast, but never materialized. We had a simply wonderful trip to Roche harbor, but it did include pushing against an ebbing tide most of the way. One decision that had to be made was if we should take Mosquito Pass, or go around the north end of the island. With a low tide on the way we made the decision to go around, and I was really glad we did. Mosquito pass is one of the worst grounding areas in the San Juan Islands. Every boat show seminar on best places to ground your boat mentions it. So, taking the conservative route would be our strategy! I was a bit disappointed that we didn’t see any Killer Whales on the way up the west side of San Juan Island, the first time that’s ever happened to us? But as I said, we did have a great trip.
I must admit today I was a bit melancholy, as it meant our time with Tom and Cindy was coming to a close. I’d like to say something about Tom and Cindy. Tom is part of my inspiration for making this trip. 2 years ago Tom suffered a stroke on the slopes of Whistler Mountain in B.C.. He had a very unique form of a stroke and bleeding in the brain that by all rights should have killed him. I can only assume that his mission on earth is not yet complete, because his life was spared, in no small part because of Cindy’s connections in the medical field. You see Cindy is one of those women that have a job that only a select few can do. She is an ER Nurse at Children’s Hospital in Seattle. She sees more pain and suffering in a month than most people experience in a lifetime. Tom received the surgery necessary to save his life in large part because Cindy knew she needed to keep looking for answers to their situation. She put out an APB (all points bulletin) to her peers which led Tom to a surgeon at Harborview Medical Center who had the skills to repair Toms bleeding blood vessels. Tom began a long recovery and is today 99% back to normal, if you can use the word “normal” to describe Tom.
Tom is one of those guys that goes to the boat show 5 times. He can tell you what make a boat is from a half mile away. He can tell you what kind of engines it has, how many gallons of fuel it carries and on and on. I admire Tom greatly. I admire the relationship Tom and Cindy have carved out, two people that are as different as night and day, and yet so right for each other. Tom has worked on my boat for hours and hours. He’s always there to squeeze into an area that I won’t fit, or to suggest an alternative way to accomplish a task. Together Tom and I can start a discussion, finish each others sentences and get Cindy and Marian laughing so hard they nearly pee their pants, as do we! Tom is one of the people that I will really miss.
-Skipper

Day 8, 8/25/07 Salt Spring Island to Victoria B.C. on Vancouver Island


The guys got up early and started off to either Victoria or Roche Harbor. They decided it would be best to go straight to Victoria since it was rough weather. I’m so glad they did because it was fun to visit Victoria by boat.
After arriving (around noon time) we all set off to find fish & chips down the way. It was really crowded with people so we figured it must be good fish & chips – and sure enough it was delicious!
We walked up and down the docks to check out the adorable floating boat houses – each one unique. Then we walked in to Victoria to enjoy the sights. We walked over to a parliament building with big statues and soaring lawns, then over to the Empress hotel where we managed to sneak inside to see what it was like.
Then we walked down by the waterfront to check out some booths and onto the docks to look at the boats. My feet started hurting, so Scott and I took a little shuttle ferry boat back to our marina. We learned the history of how these little passenger ferries got started, and that they were built by hand by a man who still lives today. They’re like little miniature ferry boats – so cute! So that evening we all ate leftovers to clean out the ‘fridge of foods that would have to be thrown out or confiscated by the customs officials the next morning. So we all ate something different: Cindy had scrambled eggs, I had left-over salmon with a salad, Scott had left-over spaghetti, and Tom had some grilled sandwiches. It’s a great way to clean out the ‘fridge….


-Admiral Marian
“They say there are two types of skippers, those that have run aground and those that will”

As Marian mentioned, today we needed to have flexibility in our trip. The forecast was for strong winds and we were concerned that we might not be able to make it down the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Victoria. As we headed south we found delightful cruising in little or no wind so we made the commitment to go to Victoria. Carter left in his Camano about an hour after us, so we hailed him on the radio to tell him we were Victoria bound.
While Tom was taking a shower and I was at the helm we were on autopilot heading down the east side of James Island. I had spent a lot of time qualifying our route in an area of very complex depths at the south east end of Vancouver Island, but had not paid as much attention on the earlier portion of the route. My CMAP cartography on the Furuno chartplotter left me with the impression we should never have seen less than 4 or 5 fathoms of water, about 25 to 30 feet. However, as we motored along I glanced over at the depth sounder, that I know is showing feet, and saw it register 10, then 8, I turned to Cindy and Marian and said “could we be in 8 feet of water?” As the “r” in water left my lips the bow of Alanui dipped ever so slightly as the boat lost about a quarter of a knot of speed and the depth sounder briefly showed 0. I reached for the throttle, pulled it back, disengaged the autopilot and began a turn to port and hopefully deeper water. Immediately the sounder said 5, 10, 20, 30… As my heart left my throat and breathing began again, I glanced back at the south end of the island. I was really glad to see it was an eroding cliff face of soft sand. That left me with the feeling that it was most likely I’d hit sand rather than rock. As we slowed to a few knots I looked at various systems. I didn’t really describe the impact very well; you could hardly call it an “impact”. To quote Cindy, we really just “kissed” the bottom. It was a very gentle lowering of the bow with no real loss of speed and no grinding sound of fiberglass on rock.
As I returned to my route I looked at Coastal Explorer, which uses completely different cartography than the Furuno chartplotter. Sure enough, just where we touched the bottom there was a ¼ sounding shown on the chart. This suggest there was about a foot of water at low tide, a situation that would have been much, much more serious. The CMAP cartography didn’t include this sounding, but it’s still my fault for putting us in water that was way to shallow. Another lesson learned without serious damage, thank you God!!!
As we rounded the south east end of Vancouver Island we saw a Strait of Juan de Fuca that was flecked with whitecaps. The tide was ebbing, flowing out against the wind, and this caused the waves to stand up a bit. However, it was no problem and we threaded our way through the narrow channels and made the turn to Victoria. For some time we were fighting a 3 knot current that must have been an eddy formed by the underwater structures in the area. After 30 minutes we looked out the stern of the boat and guess who comes flying by in his Camano? Carter had left several hours after us, but he was going to beat us into Victoria by at least a half an hour! His little boat went charging by and I realized why I loved my Camano the way I did. It’s a do it all boat! Anyway, with Carter leading the way we threaded our way through the harbor entrance, crowded with fishermen and boats and made our way to the slip at the Coast Grand Hotel. By the time we were ready to dock the wind had kicked up to 15 to 20 and I was a bit concerned. I let the wind blow us down from the dock and took an aggressive angle to the slip. When the time was right I put her in gear and powered forward, kicking the stern upwind as the bow pulpit arrived over the dock. The result was a near perfect landing, I feel like I’m beginning to get a feel for Alanui, although I still have a long way to go. We tied the boat up and went into the town center for food!!!
-Skipper

Day 7, 8/24/07 Ganges, Salt Spring Island

We all got up, had breakfast, then headed off to Saturday market at the park in the middle of town. It was so much fun checking out the booths of art work, jewelry, soaps, pottery and food made by local artisans.
It appeared to be a special weekend event for the younger kids to be selling stuff as well, for they were set up down the center aisle selling their items.
We also visited other shops in town with Scott looking for something at a Radio Shack-type store, and Cindy looking for exotic teas in a really neat tea shop. On our way back to the boat I purchased some of the local Saltspring Island coffee, and the bag it was in smelled like heaven.
Later that evening we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with just Carter and Jackie at a European Restaurant. It was excellent food, and we enjoyed the rest of the evening with just the two of them. We had decided to go to Victoria the next morning if the weather looked rough, or go straight to Roche Harbor if the conditions were favorable.

-Admiral Marian

Day 6, 8/23/07 Vancouver to Ganges, Salt Spring Island

The guys got up early to set us off and we had beautiful cruising weather and calm seas all the way to Saltspring Island. Unfortunately we had a rude boater cutting us off and forcing us to land. We literally had to stop the boat and shove it into reverse to avoid collision. The guy clearly didn’t learn the rules of navigation conduct, or didn’t care to practice it. Then later as we were waiting for a slip assignment at Ganges Marina, we had a sailboat right on our stern within inches, while Scott was trying to maneuver the boat. The sailboat then swerved to our starboard side, passing us within feet of our boat as he stormed into the marina to get a slip. We finally got an assigned slip which happened to be right next to him. Ugh! Later we were able to move our boat to another spot right behind Carter’s boat.
We walked into town to enjoy the shops and the sights. Scott was trying to find a UPS store to ship the part back, and I, of course, was looking for ice cream. Carter ducked in to a nice grocery store and got some yummy local blueberries, which we later decided to purchase as well. We met some folks who had a dog just like Stohli –Carter & Jackie’s Bernese Mtn. dog, and we all agreed that Stohli is a much prettier dog with almost perfect markings. And her manners and disposition are a real treat! We went back to the boat, made some dinner and then settled in for another episode of Dead Like Me.
-Admiral Marian

As Marian mentioned we had a simply wonderful passage across the Straits, again! In the last 2 years I’ve crossed the Straits of Georgia 5 times. On 4 of these crossings it was so calm I could have turned the stabilizers off, and in fact last year I did! Anyway we went through Porlier Pass against about a 3 knot current.
The only trouble we had on the journey was as we approached the south east end of Salt Spring Island a 36’ Grand Banks was approaching us from behind, on our Port side. In nautical terms he was the “burdened” vessel and should have altered course to avoid us, the “stand on vessel”. This is because he was behind us and overtaking us. Well he continued on his course and essentially pinched us between his course and the shoreline, less than 100 yards away. I took the helm from Tom and turned abruptly in his direction will pulling the power off. I wanted to leave no doubt in his mind that he had just caused us to take an emergency course of action because of his failure to alter course. I couldn’t have turned away from him, because of kelp beds along the shoreline. He finally got up off his helm chair and disengaged his autopilot to steer slightly to his port. It always amazes me how so few boaters consider others in their maneuvering.
Anyway after this incident we returned along our course and landed at Ganges about an hour later. Surprisingly the harbor was free of the thousands of crab pots that usually litter the approach. Oh, we did have another close call on the way to the dock. As I approached the dock I observed another large boat attempting to depart the marina along a fairway. I realized he probably would benefit by my stopping and allowing him additional room to maneuver out of the fairway so I shifted into reverse. Tom and Cindy were on the fore deck and Marian was in the Pilot house with me, so I made the unusual move of exiting the pilot house to look behind me. Again, I was still moving forward, but for some strange reason I felt compelled to make certain I wasn’t being overtaken from behind. Well imagine my horror when I observed a 40’ sailboat with his bow spirit bobbing up and down above my cockpit! He was swinging his boat to starboard in a desperate attempt to miss my stern, which he would not have cleared had I not run back to the controls and goosed it forward a bit. Then this idiot proceeds to accelerate around me to slip into his mooring before me. I was flabbergasted. Anyway, long story short no one collided and I’m sure his level of stress was a few notches above mine. The rest of the time at Ganges was delightful, to say the least!
-Skipper

Day 5, 8/22/07 Coal Harbour Marina, Vancouver B.C. Canada

Another beautiful day forecasted. I finished up the rest of the laundry while Scott waited for the part to arrive. Finally it came, so the guys dove into that project while Cindy and I took off in search of the liquor store. I’m glad I brought my strong backpack because a 6-pack of cider ale and a bottle of rum can get pretty heavy after 8 or 9 blocks of walking! When we returned, we made the guys some yummy Pina Colada drinks with the Williams-Sonoma mixer I had bought before we left on the trip. It’s good stuff, and I recommend it if you don’t have any of the ingredients to make it from scratch. We learned later on when we ran out of the stuff and made Pina Coladas from scratch, that you need to really stir the can of coconut cream really well (don’t just shake it) to get all of the yummy coconut cream out that stays at the bottom of the can. But those drinks from scratch were just as delicious.
We had a yummy salmon dinner with the same salsa recipe that we got from Carter, which turned out really good. The guys stayed up pretty late readying the boat for an early morning departure.
-Admiral Marian

Day 4, 8/22/07 Coal Harbour Marina, Vancouver B.C. Canada

We all slept in to another beautiful day in Vancouver. After a light breakfast, we all headed off to Granville Island to get some groceries at the market. We had lunch at a wonderful place called the Sandbar Restaurant, then loaded up on fresh salmon, veggies, and fruits. A fun place to shop!
Scott and Tom kindly took the groceries back to the boat, while Cindy and I stayed on to check out the other shops. There was a comedian doing a show in the market square – he was balancing on a skateboard, which was on top of a board on top of four 4-foot high poles. Then, he was stepping through a tennis racket (no strings of course) while doing all of this balancing…..crazy guy! So after browsing the shops, we returned to the boat with the groceries all put away, and the guys resting in the afternoon sun. So nice……. That evening we decided not to go out to dinner, but to enjoy some of the food we just purchased. Then Cindy and I took our laundry up to the Laundromat and got a couple of loads in….the rest will have to wait til the morning……while we waited for the laundry, Jackie and Carter came over to our boat for a visit. Our original plans had been changed to spend another night in Vancouver, while we waited for a new part for Scott’s Nauticomp display to arrive the next morning.

-Admiral Marian

One of the things that Marian can not stand is head odors. When we first brought Alanui up the coast and started to use her we noticed a foul odor when we flushed the head. We determined that the vent to the holding tank was located inside the Portuguese Bridge enclosure. When you flush the Vacuflush head and deposit material in the holding tank, foul air is released out the vent. If the port hole is open in the galley the foul air makes its way into the saloon. You can imagine the conversations that would ensue:

Scott: (shouting from the head) Marian, I’m going to flush, close the port hole!
Marian: What?
Scott: I’m flushing, hurry, close the port hole!!
Marian: What, I can’t hear you?
Scott: Marian, you have to close..
Marian: Oh God, what’s that smell, damn it Scott, why didn’t you tell me you were flushing!!!
Scott: Marian, where are the baby wipes?
Marian: I have to evacuate the saloon, you’re on your own!
Scott: What?

Needless to say this is an undesirable situation. It’s made worse when guests are aboard. Well, Tom and Cindy gave us some advice that we consider one of the best kept secrets in boating. I’m only telling you this because it’s good Karma and may get me into heaven some day. We were in a marina last year and Tom said, hey, let’s see if they have any Canndure for treating the head odors.
We went to the chandlery and found 6 bottles of Canndure priced at $3.95 each. Tom said, you must buy these, this is a GREAT deal! So we bought 5 of the 6. I’m the kind of guy that just can’t take the last item off the shelf, because of Karma. I feel like if I take the last one someone else is going to come up and find it missing and perhaps ruin his day. So when possible I leave at least one. Tom told me later they must have been mispriced, because they should have been about $25 a bottle. We think the pricing machine might have been missing the 2. Anyway we put this stuff in our head and in three days the smell was GONE. I mean GONE. I should have taken all 6 bottles! Anyway, you can only get this stuff in Canada. I believe you can order it, but I don’t need to. While we were in Cole Harbour we found a case of the stuff at the local chandlery. We bought 12 bottles, enough to last us a year or more. You can learn more about this product by clicking on the links below:

Canndure: http://www.ospmicrocheck.com/Products/7-canndure.htm
You can learn more about the active ingredient in Canndure (Bronopol) here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronopol

In closing this topic, I do feel like I should contact the marina where we bought this stuff 2 years ago and pay them for the bottles that were miss-priced. Perhaps I’ll get a chance to do that while we are here in the marina. It’s not good Karma to have left them short on the exchange. If everyone took advantage of mistakes like this the business wouldn’t last long.
-Skipper

Day 3, 8/21/07 Semiahmoo to Coal Harbour Marina, Vancouver B.C. Canada

Another early morning departure as Cindy and I slept in. I think breakfast consisted of cereal and toast since we were so full from last night's feast. Today's plan is to arrive in Vancouver by noontime. Another day of calm seas and blue skies. We reached the customs dock in Vancouver right at noon, and we were docked at the Coal Harbor Marina by 1:00, and ready to walk the town in search of ice cream – our favorite temptation.
Jackie and Carter headed off to the market on Granville Island while we tidied up the boat and Scott and Tom worked on some more wiring projects. We had dinner on the boat which was Cindy’s marinated chicken, potatoes and salad, and it was yummy. We watched the pilot show of a television series called Dead Like Me which we found strangely intriguing and humorous in spite of its dark plot. Couldn’t wait to see more of it…
-Admiral Marian
The trip from Semiahmoo to Vancouver was delightful. The famed Strait of Georgia was as calm as could be, just like last year in the last week of August.
One thing of note was a call I made to a fishing fleet off the Tsawwassen Ferry terminal. I saw a number of floats in the water and was concerned that they may have been nets rather than crab pots. I made several calls to any boat in the fishing fleet and none answered. After the 3rd call the Victoria Coast Guard radioed to say they were crab floats, that they couldn’t have been nets. Hats off to the Coast Guard for taking the time to call me when the fishermen wouldn’t! Seeing the Lions Gate Bridge as we came in the harbor is stunning. Approaching Vancouver is stunning. Floatplanes are landing, cruise ships are departing, boats of every type mill about the harbor. Top it all of with a world class skyline and you understand why Coal Harbour marina is one of our favorite places to stay. Tom took the helm and gracefully landed us at the Customs dock. I called customs, told them about our supply of wine and lack of meat and produce products and we were the way in no time. Just a few minutes later we were tied up in a beautiful waterfront slip in Coal Harbour. Right across from Alanui was Senjero, a 57’ Nordhavn owned by Neil and Elaine Williamson, who we had met a few months earlier. We will be joining them on the FUBAR rally from San Diego to La Paz in November. I didn’t see Neil or Elaine, but I expect them to pass us on the way down the coast. Knowing we were going to be in Vancouver for a day or two, I took the opportunity to open up the helm console and attempt to connect the Nauticomp display, the FLIR camera and get the PC going. The first item we went after was the all important Nauticomp display. For those of you who aren’t boat savvy, this is essentially a $6,000 19” LCD display. Now you may be asking, how the heck can a 19” display cost $6,000, because it’s for a BOAT. You know what BOAT stands for? Break Out Another Thousand. Seriously the reason it’s $6,000 is because it has inputs for 10 devices. Two HDMI, two VGA, two S-Video, three Composite Video, and a Component Video. It also has a hardened case with an extremely small bezel. The fit to install the display requires 1/32nd of an inch accuracy in cutting the opening. It also has a lot of software features to scale the video and dim to red. All in all it’s a $3,000 piece of technology selling for $6,000 because it’s on a boat. Anyway, back to the story. We went to complete the installation of the display and discovered that the power supply was for a 24volt input, rather than the 12 volts that my house bank provides. A quick call to Nauticomp had the parts on the way next day air, for a modest fee. I’ll need to talk to my buddy Brian at Emerald Harbor Marine to see how we ended up with a 24v power supply on a 12v boat? Here is a picture of Tom and I in the middle of this electronics effort.

Anyway, we used the time to also complete the installation of the 12v automotive computer that will be used to run Rosepoint’s Coastal Explorer. Well guess what? After we got the display up and running, we couldn’t get the video to appear on the display. We tried various combinations of equipment, always pointing back to a bad video signal from the PC. A call to Logic Supply quickly determined that the CMOS settings for the display must have been changed (don’t ask me how) and all we had to do was reset the CMOS to factory defaults. We pulled the case apart one more time, put a jumper on a set of pins, reassembled the case and VOILA, it worked.

Completing this phase of the installation was providing power to the 2nd ICOM VHF radio. A backup radio is essential for cruising and affords great flexibility in maintaining the ability to monitor CH16 and listen to weather or talk to fellow cruisers.
-Skipper

Day 2, 8/20/07 Point Hudson Marina to Semiahmoo

Scott and Tom woke up early again and set us off for Semiahmoo in Blaine. Again, Cindy and I slumbered on, agreeing that this arrangement is clearly the best way to go! We finally got up and fixed the guys breakfast as we continued on our journey. We arrived at the marina in Semiahmoo around 3:00 with clear blue skies and sunshine.
Carter came down to the marina to greet us, and Jackie showed up later as they were loading up their boat with food and supplies. We enjoyed an incredible dinner at Jackie and Carter's house with melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork that Carter roasted for many hours that day, plus salmon with a mango/papaya salsa, delicious coleslaw, homemade baked beans, salad, and to top it off - homemade blueberry cobbler that Jackie made! How do you top that???!!
-Admiral Marian
As Marian has observed, she and Cindy often sleep in and Tom and I launch the boat. Well, to be fair, Tom does all the hard work (tending lines, pulling in the shore power, pulling up the fenders and so forth). I stand at the helm and try to keep the boat from bashing into the dock or hitting anyone else. Both Tom and I appear to have the same sized bladders as we often wake within a few minutes of each other to use the head. On days we are departing this seems to happen about 5:30am. It may be that it’s my bladder that causes Tom to wake up, because he and Cindy share the guest stateroom which is across the hallway from the head. Since the guest stateroom doesn’t get much circulation they sleep with the door open. With the door open the noise from the head must be obvious to Tom, resulting in a sympathetic reaction from his bladder. Anyway, enough talk about peeing. Tom and I got underway and plotted a course up the west side of Whidbey Island. It was clear and calm and the 56 mile trip took almost exactly 8 hours. We averaged 7 knots, something you will realize is our cruising speed of choice!
As we headed north we noticed that there was a 180 degree error in our Radar alignment with the chart. Tom wanted to use the software to fix the problem but I was convinced it was a more fundamental issue than a simple alignment issue. A call to Furuno revealed the problem. I had upgraded the Navnet 1 chartplotter to a Navnet 2 unit. When I did this there was an installation wizard that should have been run, but I neglected to do it because I was told I could simply pull the old unit out and replace it with the new one. The result was the Antenna type was misconfigured. Setting the correct antenna type resolved the issue and the images align perfectly. Another of the innumerable configuration items that must be tracked and stored someplace so if you have a problem in the future, you have the notes to address them.
-Skipper

Day 1, 8/19/07 Seattle to Point Hudson Marina

Scott and Tom woke up at 5:00 a.m. and casted us off the dock in the dark, drizzly rain while Cindy and I continue to slumber on in own cozy beds. The lock people at Ballard Locks weren't able to send us through immediately, so by the time they did, Cindy was up, dressed, and able to help the guys tend the lines.
I finally woke up as we were part of the way through, so I remained in my robe. (lazy bum) Our guests are hard workers and unafraid to get a bit wet - and they got pretty wet! I wondered if this was a sign of the weather to come, but when we arrived at Port Hudson marina in Port Townsend, the skies opened up, the sun was shining, and soon we forgot that it had even been raining that morning.
After securing the boat, and paying for our slip, we set off for a nice afternoon in the town of Port Townsend. We had lunch and checked out the shops in town. We went back to the boat and the guys worked on various projects while Cindy and I organized the boat and later made dinner. We had a delightful evening talking and laughing and enjoying first evening on our trip.

-Admiral Marian
The trip to Point Hudson was accomplished on calm Puget Sound seas with no significant wind or seas to speak of. Coming through the Port Townsend Canal we encountered an ebbing current of 4 knots, here is what the bouy outside the channel looked like:
(pic coming soon...)
Point Hudson has recently been renovated and now sports nicer floating docks that will accommodate longer boats. Sadly the Otter Creek Crossing CafĂ© was no longer being operated by the previous owners and we weren’t able to enjoy the banana/pecan pancakes. This didn’t detract from our love of Pt. Hudson, a place we always enjoy.
While Marian and Cindy kept things working on the care and feeding front, Tom Brownlee and I dove into some of the various projects we needed to complete during this "Shake Down" portion of our trip. In any voyage there are things that NEED to get done, things that Need to get done and things that need to get done. On my list of things that NEEDED to get done were:
a. Secure the Tender, it was tied in place but not secure enough for the Pacific Ocean
b. Complete the installation of various electronic components, including:
1. Backup VHF radio, needed power
2. 2nd Navigation system, an automotive computer connected to a 19" Nauticomp display, needed power and video cabling
3. Connect the FLIR camera, needed power and Nauticomp display up and running
4. Install the all important Nauticomp display, key to everything!!
5. Install the Loud Hailer In Point Hudson we tackled the job of installing the loud hailer. For those of you that don't know a Loud Hailer is a trumpet like fixture that can both broadcast and listen to sounds. It's used so the skipper can listen to sounds (fog horns) or broadcast his own words, like "Pirate if you come near this boat I'll, well I'm not sure what I'll do but you won't like it", it can also broadcast your own fog horn a requirement from ages past. This project included drilling and taping screw holes in the radar mounting tower, something I haven't done in years and years. With Tom's help we drilled and taped the appropriate holes, mounted and wired the Loud Hailer and got it up and running in a matter of a few hours. We tested it by broadcasting a nice greeting to those walking by and by listening to conversations of people on the dock a few yards away. Scratch that project off the list!
-Skipper

Going Away Party

Saying goodbye to friends and family is never easy. There were many people we wanted to say goodbye to, so we organized a Bon Voyage party. Shannon, our youngest daughter took responsibility for pulling the event together, which we held at the U.S. Naval Reserve building on the south shore of Lake Union in Seattle.
Helping Shannon was two of her friends Chelsea and Sara. Also two of our closest friends Jim and Nancy Lewis.
Shannon got us a wonderful cake which had been abandoned by a wedding party. Needless to say it was magnificent!
The facility is just wonderful, as we were able to bring Alanui to the dock and show everyone our accommodations for the next two years. About 40 of our friends and neighbors joined in the send off.
As we departed there were two Tall Ships in Lake Union. I took this and an encouragement that 200 years ago man was plying the worlds oceans to lay the ground work for us to be able to take this journey. Somehow this was a very comforting thought!